So what remains is the question of whether the flavors and aromas you get from dry hopping during primary fermentation are the flavors and aromas you were looking for. This is something you will have to decide for yourself and some experimentation is definitely in order. For those who feel that too much aroma is lost during primary, adding dry hops during secondary is definitely the way to go. Most homebrewers do dry hop during secondary fermentation. Before dry hopping in the secondary, rack off the trub in the primary to remove as much yeast mass as possible.
Here are some tips:. One final method of adding enhanced hop aroma to your finished beer is the hop back. The hop back is placed after the boil kettle and before the chiller. Beer is normally gravity fed to the hop back and can be pumped to the chiller with some adjustment of the flow.
The hot wort coming out of the kettle will extract more hop oils than you can get from dry hopping. The added benefit for many is the fact that the hops are sanitized by the hop wort and this eliminates the worry of contamination. Some believe that the cooling of the wort immediately after it has run through the whole hops preserves as much of the hop oils as would be released from dry hopping in the fermenter.
Many commercial breweries use a variation of the hop back, including Sierra Nevada theirs is called a Torpedo and the beer they brew is the Torpedo Extra IPA. Some people worry about contamination when adding un-sanitized hops to green beer.
They have always added antibacterial properties to beer and thus provide a very poor substrate for bacteria to grow on. This may not be too much of a problem if your styles are pretty similar, but could be bad if you are pitching reused IPA yeast into a Kolsch or Saison. Most homebrew recipes that feature a dry hop give you a schedule that looks like the following:.
The way you read this recipe, is that it is asking for two different hop charges, one with 7 days left before packaging, and the last one with 3 days left before packaging. I always add my first dry hop charge at high krausen. This is probably the safest time to do it because any oxygen you add while adding the charge will be instantly processed by the very active yeast. The second dry hop charge I try to do a few days before I think the beer will be at final gravity.
You can also keep testing the beer with a hydrometer as well to see how close it is getting to the FG. The reason I dry hope right before FG is reached is that since there is still some expected yeast activity to occur, the hope is that they will happily much on any oxygen accidentally added to the vessel while adding my last hop charge in.
Sometimes I get lazy or nervous about oxidation and just add all the dry hops all at once in one large charge. If you are staring out homebrewing, I would suggest doing one large dry hop charge at high krausen until you feel more comfortable branching out and trying different techniques.
Studies bear out what chemical analysis has shown when it comes to hop aroma extraction. Aroma intensity was exactly the same for beers dry hopped with pellets for six hours versus when dry hopped for four days. Shorter dry hop times were also rated with higher fruity characteristics from monoterpene alcohols and thiols while longer dry hopped beers were ranked higher for herbal notes from polyphenols.
Get our in-depth articles delivered weekly right to your inbox. You'll need to find your own beer though. Beer Maverick is a website built for and by avid homebrewers and craft beer drinkers.
We aim to provide in-depth brewing information for everyone from beginners to experts. Beer Maverick is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. The Science of Dry Hopping Dry hopping does not impart much, if any bitterness to your beers.
Tip: Search Our Extensive Hop Database How Much to Dry Hop This of course depends on your preference, but since most dry hops are meant to impart a juicy flavor and aroma in New England-style IPAs, the typical dosing amount is between 1—2 oz g of hops per gallon of beer, meaning up to ounces can be used in a 5 gallon 19 l batch. How to Dry Hop There are two common ways to dry hop : put the hops in a muslin or similar bag and place it into your primary or secondary fermenter, or just sprinkle the hops directly into the fermenter and let them float around freely.
The downside to using a bag like this is twofold: There is decreased surface area for the hops to impart their favor in the wort.
Free floating gives your hops the best chance to provide their flavor and aroma to the beer. Typical small-mouthed carboys are usually too small to easily get the bags in and out of. This is the reason I stopped using them.
For example, one experiment showed that after just two hours of recirculating via a pump immediately after adding the dry hops and then allowing the hops to sit idle in the tank, resulted in increased aroma compounds compared to a non-circulated beer.
Obviously, as the dry hopping rates increase, so would the overall polyphenol concentration. A study by Hopsteiner found that a unique polyphenol found only in hops xanthohumol is in significantly higher rates in hazy beers than other styles.
The same body of research also tested other non-polar compounds like myrcene in commercial hazy IPAs and found they are also much higher than in the West Coast IPA tested. So, although myrcene is non-polar, the more viscous protein-rich base is encouraging these compounds to stay in solution, potentially with more hop bite.
This same Hopsteiner study looked at how putting a hazy beer through a centrifuge might impact some of these compounds and found that centrifuging removed half of the myrcene and the half the measured polyphenol xanthohumol content. Although incredibly expensive devices, centrifuging hazy IPAs may be a way to decrease the conditioning time required to reduce hop bite by removing some of the harsh tasting polyphenols by as much as half their levels almost immediately.
There is even more evidence suggesting that dry hopping can impact the perceived bitterness in beers, likely from polyphenols. Here, a paper considered the phenolic acid and total polyphenol contents of 34 commercial lager beers brewed in different countries, combined with sensory testing of the same beers.
The authors found that beers that were dry hopped had the highest phenolic, polyphenol, and humulinone concentration. These same beers were also perceived as having a harsh and progressive bitterness. If you know that lots of dry hopping may contribute to some polyphenol and humulinone bitterness, then replacing the hot-side bitterness with a pre-isomerized iso-alpha product could be something to consider.
Especially if your system is limited to a maximum amount of whirlpool hopping. Although also impact other hop compounds, one method to try and minimize polyphenol bitterness from dry hopping other than running the beer through a centrifuge is to dry hop while the yeast is active.
Polyphenols can interact with yeast and drop out of solution when yeast flocculates, which should, in turn, reduce overall polyphenol content. Leave the lower polyphenol varieties for late hopping when fermentation is done or nearly done.
Advertised to formulate the rapid sedimentation of yeast and other hazy forming particles, I wonder if it would help drop out some of the harsher astringent qualities of a hazy beer, like centrifuging, but at a much lower price point. The medium polyphenol-content hops averages around 4. The lowest polyphenol-hops averages around 3. Moving to other variables that can impact the total polyphenol content of dry hopped beers, a paper looking at dry hop temperature, dry hop duration, and the impact on polyphenol extraction had some interesting results.
The authors found that the temperature of the dry hop significantly increased polyphenol extraction. How quickly do polyphenols get into beer during the dry hop? One study suggests that peak concentrations are around three days of dry hopping, which is about where the research suggest most hop compound extraction peaks.
The peak concentration of polyphenols remains consistent when tested up to a days. In this case, the beer was dry hopped in 30 L approximately 8-gallons of wort. Small batch homebrewing may see full polyphenol extraction even sooner. Experimenting with dry hopping while crashing is one way try this. Another is to dry hop during the cold carbonation period, especially since certain hop compounds like linalool were tested to still extract at colder temperatures.
As it has been tested, beers with reduced polyphenol content scored lower on harsh character. Neither of us were particularly impressed overall with the PVPP beer, but this is just one example. Pellet Disintegration and Sedimentation. When dropped into beer, pellets simultaneously begin to swell and disintegrate into primary particles. During this time, the particles break off and will drop or stay suspended.
Eventually, all the hop particles will settle to the bottom of the vessel, but the velocity of the settlement depends on the size and density.
In other words, the larger the particle size that breaks away from the pellet during swelling, the faster it will drop out of the beer and extraction stops or slows. On the other hand, the smaller the particle size, the longer the particle will stay in suspension and contribute to the extraction of volatile compounds. This is likely why some studies found better or faster extraction when using stirring or pumping techniques to keep the hops in contact with the beer.
In addition to suspension times and particle size, swelling process can influence hop compound extraction, because the surface area depends on the particle size and fluid uptake of the primary particles. Small particles have a large specific surface, but fluid uptake swelling increases the surface area. One way to encourage speedier swelling is by increased temperatures. Swelling velocities increase as the dry hopping temperature increases.
The above information on how pellets behave during dry hopping helps explain the results of a Hopsteiner study on the extraction of linalool when dry hopping with loose pellets vs. Getting reduced extraction when using a hop sack makes sense because keeping the hops contained reduces the surface area of the hops, leading to less extraction. Dry hopping loose could then increase extraction, reduce hop usage which might also reduce harsh polyphenols , and speed up dry hopping time required.
This is because elevated temperatures and constant agitation from the boil should increase extraction. As a homebrewer, I know that dry hopping in kegs and dealing with clogged poppets can also be a problem. You can then insert a 6 or 6. The micron filters are intended to be used with hop pellets and the micron filters with whole leaf hops, I would recommend going with the micron filters to use for both. You can also use a filter setup like this if you choose to ferment in kegs, which allows for pressurized hop-free transfers out of the primary fermenting keg.
At colder serving temperatures, most of the hops in the keg will sink allowing for clear hoppy beer to be pulled from the top via the floating device. With so many factors that can impact variables like extraction rates, using a standard dry hop amount figure might do more harm than good.
However, there is research into how different dry hop volumes might impact the final flavor and aroma. The beer was then analyzed for oil concentration and sensory testing was also performed. Tested with 40L of beer Not surprisingly, the higher the concentration of Cascade hops, the higher sensory scores for hop intensity.
Hop intensity may not always be the goal, however, as results also found that as the rate increased with hop intensity , so did scores for herbal and tea characteristics. Another key takeaway from this study is a look at the extraction percentage of terpene alcohols at the different dry hopping rates. In other words, how much of the possible fruity monoterpene alcohols, like linalool, geraniol, and nerol, were extracted at the different dry hop amounts?
They found that as the dry hopping percentage increased, the efficiency of the extraction decreased. In other words, these monoterpene alcohols are extracted more efficiently when dry hopped in smaller doses. Another study examining extraction of hop compounds confirmed that as an amount of dry hops increases, the extraction percentage decreases.
The data makes a case for experimenting with low dry hop dosages maybe 1. Increasing these rates with fewer hops could potentially mean less extraction of harsh polyphenols and bitter humulinones that could come with higher hopping amounts. For homebrewers, in regard to the Cascade study anyways, it would mean that for a 5.
It might be even better to split up the grams into gram increments to try and boost extraction potential, being sure to purge the headspace with C02 with each dry hop addition to prevent oxygen exposure post-fermentation. Another factor to consider with dry hopping is how batch size can play a role in extraction. One paper tested the same dry hopping rates grams per l The authors found that at the same dry hopping rate, the smaller 5-gallon keg had substantially higher concentrations of hop compounds than the two larger batches.
Sensory testing also revealed that the reduced batch size resulted in higher intensities in smell and taste. However, the smaller batch size had hop characteristics that were defined as less fruity than the larger batches with more of a raw hop and herbal character.
Ultimately, the authors concluded that the composition of hop compounds from dry hopping depends on scale because the mass transfer rates of hop aromatics are not comparable for different batch sizes. This means that trying to scale up a homebrew recipe to a large commercial size may come up short regarding desired hop aromatics. On the other hand, trying to emulate the same dry hopping rates from commercial breweries on the homebrew scale would also not likely get the same results.
One of the biggest downsides to extreme dry hopping rates are beer losses. This may not be as big of a deal to the homebrewer who can brew slightly over 5 gallons to accommodate for the loss. However, professional breweries need to make money, so losses from excessive dry hopping can add up. The authors suggest that to avoid losses and keep a strong aromatic profile in the beer, brewers can supplement dry hopping with hop extracts and oils.
But an important disclosure: this study was produced by Totally Natural Solutions, who sells hop oils. I always assumed that if a particular hop variety was high in total oil content, then it had a better chance of producing a beer with bigger flavor and aroma.
But is this the case? In , researchers at Oregon State University put this concept to the test by evaluating beers dry hopped with Cascade hops from 29 different lots. Total oil content from each lot ranged from 0. A trained panel evaluated the beers five times, each in a randomized fashion. The authors concluded that Cascade dry hopped beers containing higher amounts of total oil did not necessarily result in a beer with higher overall hop aroma intensity.
In fact, the Cascade hop with lowest oil content had one of the highest aroma intensity ratings and one of the higher total oil hops had the lowest evaluated aroma intensity.
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